Cioccolata!

How fabulous is a cone of chocolate gelato on the steps of the Trevi Fountain in Rome?  And how infectious is this incredible smile?

Palio in Siena

If you've watched the latest James Bond movie, you've caught a glimpse of the Palio in Siena, Italy.  It's a no-holds barred bareback horse race that often ends with riderless horses and a few crushed folks along the way. 

Each year it is run in the Piazza del Campo at the center of an enormous ring of ancient buildings.  The piazza is sloped toward one side like a natural embankment, and at all times of day you'll find hundreds of people lounging to take in the sun, enjoy a quick bite to eat or commune with friends.  Restaurants line the sidewalk space against the buildings.

The Palio is an intense neighborhood rivalry, with horse and jockey teams defined by the contrada they represent.

It is a medieval tradition that has carried forward through the centuries, with the winner being awarded a unique hand-painted silk.  The race takes place in July and August, with a maximum of ten teams in each competition. We safely watched the race on television, but visited the site just this week.  This picture of the race in progress was borrowed from Wikipedia.

As we learned, the winning jockey and his supporters have the right to parade through the Piazza every night for a year.  With flags flying, banners waving and a lively brass band playing, the parade was a welcome midnight break for revelers in Siena.

Sidewalk Artisans

My hat goes off to the unnamed artists of the world whose work is studied and appreciated by thousands of people every day, but whose praise goes largely unsung because of the temporary nature of their creations. 

I'm talking about sidewalk artists, the men and women who create magnificent depictions of famous paintings or scenes of their own creation in chalk to beautify the cities in which they work.

Here in Florence, homage is paid to Leonardo Da Vinci's infamous Mona Lisa.  In Italian, the painting is known as La Gioconda.

World Famous Dogs

It is hard to describe what it is like to travel with Brandy and Sienna.  They are a tourist attraction unto themselves! 

When people see their sweet faces, they immediately come over, ask questions . . . and sometimes just get down and pick them up for a quick cuddle!

Our little pups have been videotaped and photographed by tourists from Australia, China, Korea, Japan, Austria, Switzerland, France, India, Bangladesh, Germany, Sweden, United Kingdom and so many more countries it's hard to keep track.

They are fantastic traveling companions - and they've gone out to dinner so many times with us on the road, they simply curl up beneath the table and go to sleep!

Locked in Love

In Florence, in the shadow of the Ponte Vecchio along the River Arno and steps away from the Uffizi Gallery, a peculiar pasttime has become legend.

They are the love padlocks, and they bump side by side along chains and fences.  Sweethearts inscribe their names and a special date on the lock.  With a twist of the key, they are united, and when the key is tossed into the river, they are bound in love. 

At least that's what legend says . . . and you know how I love a great story.

I miei amici!

 Meeting up with good friends in a foreign country is a particular kind of delight that I wish you all to experience.  Change of scenery, new experiences shared together - it's what memories are made of. 

On Thursday, we met Tom and Teri and Jim and Carole for pizza and wine in Florence, then hit up the leather shops for a quick splurge in the Italian economy!

Great to see you guys again!

Meet Chef and Sommelier Giuseppe "Beppe" Meschiari

He is chef, sommelier, restaurant entrepreneur and friend.  He is Giuseppe “Beppe” Meschiari, and he is the indefatigable man behind Taverna Napoleone in Castlenuovo Rangone, Italy.  

When you first meet this charismatic young man, you are charmed by his joyous personality and smile. But it only takes a few seconds to realize that he is far more than just a nice guy.  At only 33, Beppe knows his stuff, as the Americans would say.

From flying jets and small planes to discerning the fine differences in the 3000 wines he’s evaluated to greeting his restaurant customers like they are good friends, Beppe is a man of broad talents.  He is married to Alessia, a penal lawyer in Modena.  The two met while skiing in the Alpine area of Trento.

While sumptuous bread cooks in the restaurant’s large wood oven with the leftover coals from the last night’s fire – warm, but not too hot temperature makes for a slow, perfect rise – amazing aromas fill the restaurant space. We talk about the evolution of Beppe’s career and how he always knew it would lead him back to the kitchen.  At the same time, he’s making arrangements for an evening community event, handling unexpected logistical challenges with grace, coaching anxious brides-to-be, and sharing his wisdom with his family and staff.

“I love everything about food, from shopping the markets in the early morning to preparing new dishes to serving great meals to customers and friends at night.  The man who gave me the passion for cooking and the restaurant business was my uncle Giancarlo,” he explains. “We lost him a few years ago, but we carry on in his honor at Taverna Napoleone.”  

Taverna Napoleone was founded in 1974 close to Maranello, and is very much a family business today.  It moved to its current location in Castlenuovo Rangone in 2000.  With his grandmother, mother, aunt and uncle working in his kitchen at his side, Beppe savors tradition.  “To carry on with the restaurant means I’m able to bring the traditions of the family forward.  They could get lost, but having the restaurant helps us keep our traditions together.”

As an exchange student in high school, Beppe spent a year living the American dream on a cattle and horse farm in Guthrie, Oklahoma near Oklahoma City with his host family, the Latimers.  There he not only became a “champion” bull and horseback rider, but also experienced regional cuisine that influenced his gourmet tastes.   “The barbecue sauce was unforgettable, and in Oklahoma I really enjoyed the beef.”  Now, he slow-smokes meats with particular woods to create subtle flavors and textures.

Beppe is a self-proclaimed daredevil who has parachuted from planes and has earned “every driving license Italy has to offer – jets, boats, trains, buses, taxis, motorcycles and of course, cars.” He explains that he is also a certified scuba instructor.  When I asked him why, he gives me a grin.  “Why did I get so many licenses?  Why not?  It’s fun!”

When I asked Beppe about his love of cooking, he told me it has always been a part of his life.  “I learned at my Uncle and my Mama and my Nonna’s sides,” he says.  “They inspired me to carry on the culinary traditions our family has had for generations.” 

Beppe’s many talents have taken him far and wide.  He was asked to prepare a memorable meal for the Italian Embassy in London, which turned out to be a huge success that earned him high praise.  Though he humbly speaks of his skills, Beppe is a sought-after and award-winning sommelier with the Associazione Italina Sommelier who shares his expertise at community events and corporate affairs throughout Italy.  He is also a successful restaurateur who opens his doors and treats every guest as if they were a close friend.

In my opinion, Beppe is living life right in a career that inspires his creativity, draws out his love of people and blesses him with the fulfillment of busy, happy workdays. 

His advice to teens thinking about the restaurant business or cooking as a career?  “Put the most love you have into what you’re doing.  Do what you like – not what you’re told to do.  Don’t care what the oldest chef in the kitchen has to say – he’s not always right.  There is no way you can do your best if you’re not making your own way.”

Great advice, Beppe.  Thanks!

 Taverna Napoleone