Cioccolata!

How fabulous is a cone of chocolate gelato on the steps of the Trevi Fountain in Rome?  And how infectious is this incredible smile?

Palio in Siena

If you've watched the latest James Bond movie, you've caught a glimpse of the Palio in Siena, Italy.  It's a no-holds barred bareback horse race that often ends with riderless horses and a few crushed folks along the way. 

Each year it is run in the Piazza del Campo at the center of an enormous ring of ancient buildings.  The piazza is sloped toward one side like a natural embankment, and at all times of day you'll find hundreds of people lounging to take in the sun, enjoy a quick bite to eat or commune with friends.  Restaurants line the sidewalk space against the buildings.

The Palio is an intense neighborhood rivalry, with horse and jockey teams defined by the contrada they represent.

It is a medieval tradition that has carried forward through the centuries, with the winner being awarded a unique hand-painted silk.  The race takes place in July and August, with a maximum of ten teams in each competition. We safely watched the race on television, but visited the site just this week.  This picture of the race in progress was borrowed from Wikipedia.

As we learned, the winning jockey and his supporters have the right to parade through the Piazza every night for a year.  With flags flying, banners waving and a lively brass band playing, the parade was a welcome midnight break for revelers in Siena.

Sidewalk Artisans

My hat goes off to the unnamed artists of the world whose work is studied and appreciated by thousands of people every day, but whose praise goes largely unsung because of the temporary nature of their creations. 

I'm talking about sidewalk artists, the men and women who create magnificent depictions of famous paintings or scenes of their own creation in chalk to beautify the cities in which they work.

Here in Florence, homage is paid to Leonardo Da Vinci's infamous Mona Lisa.  In Italian, the painting is known as La Gioconda.

World Famous Dogs

It is hard to describe what it is like to travel with Brandy and Sienna.  They are a tourist attraction unto themselves! 

When people see their sweet faces, they immediately come over, ask questions . . . and sometimes just get down and pick them up for a quick cuddle!

Our little pups have been videotaped and photographed by tourists from Australia, China, Korea, Japan, Austria, Switzerland, France, India, Bangladesh, Germany, Sweden, United Kingdom and so many more countries it's hard to keep track.

They are fantastic traveling companions - and they've gone out to dinner so many times with us on the road, they simply curl up beneath the table and go to sleep!

Locked in Love

In Florence, in the shadow of the Ponte Vecchio along the River Arno and steps away from the Uffizi Gallery, a peculiar pasttime has become legend.

They are the love padlocks, and they bump side by side along chains and fences.  Sweethearts inscribe their names and a special date on the lock.  With a twist of the key, they are united, and when the key is tossed into the river, they are bound in love. 

At least that's what legend says . . . and you know how I love a great story.

I miei amici!

 Meeting up with good friends in a foreign country is a particular kind of delight that I wish you all to experience.  Change of scenery, new experiences shared together - it's what memories are made of. 

On Thursday, we met Tom and Teri and Jim and Carole for pizza and wine in Florence, then hit up the leather shops for a quick splurge in the Italian economy!

Great to see you guys again!

Meet Chef and Sommelier Giuseppe "Beppe" Meschiari

He is chef, sommelier, restaurant entrepreneur and friend.  He is Giuseppe “Beppe” Meschiari, and he is the indefatigable man behind Taverna Napoleone in Castlenuovo Rangone, Italy.  

When you first meet this charismatic young man, you are charmed by his joyous personality and smile. But it only takes a few seconds to realize that he is far more than just a nice guy.  At only 33, Beppe knows his stuff, as the Americans would say.

From flying jets and small planes to discerning the fine differences in the 3000 wines he’s evaluated to greeting his restaurant customers like they are good friends, Beppe is a man of broad talents.  He is married to Alessia, a penal lawyer in Modena.  The two met while skiing in the Alpine area of Trento.

While sumptuous bread cooks in the restaurant’s large wood oven with the leftover coals from the last night’s fire – warm, but not too hot temperature makes for a slow, perfect rise – amazing aromas fill the restaurant space. We talk about the evolution of Beppe’s career and how he always knew it would lead him back to the kitchen.  At the same time, he’s making arrangements for an evening community event, handling unexpected logistical challenges with grace, coaching anxious brides-to-be, and sharing his wisdom with his family and staff.

“I love everything about food, from shopping the markets in the early morning to preparing new dishes to serving great meals to customers and friends at night.  The man who gave me the passion for cooking and the restaurant business was my uncle Giancarlo,” he explains. “We lost him a few years ago, but we carry on in his honor at Taverna Napoleone.”  

Taverna Napoleone was founded in 1974 close to Maranello, and is very much a family business today.  It moved to its current location in Castlenuovo Rangone in 2000.  With his grandmother, mother, aunt and uncle working in his kitchen at his side, Beppe savors tradition.  “To carry on with the restaurant means I’m able to bring the traditions of the family forward.  They could get lost, but having the restaurant helps us keep our traditions together.”

As an exchange student in high school, Beppe spent a year living the American dream on a cattle and horse farm in Guthrie, Oklahoma near Oklahoma City with his host family, the Latimers.  There he not only became a “champion” bull and horseback rider, but also experienced regional cuisine that influenced his gourmet tastes.   “The barbecue sauce was unforgettable, and in Oklahoma I really enjoyed the beef.”  Now, he slow-smokes meats with particular woods to create subtle flavors and textures.

Beppe is a self-proclaimed daredevil who has parachuted from planes and has earned “every driving license Italy has to offer – jets, boats, trains, buses, taxis, motorcycles and of course, cars.” He explains that he is also a certified scuba instructor.  When I asked him why, he gives me a grin.  “Why did I get so many licenses?  Why not?  It’s fun!”

When I asked Beppe about his love of cooking, he told me it has always been a part of his life.  “I learned at my Uncle and my Mama and my Nonna’s sides,” he says.  “They inspired me to carry on the culinary traditions our family has had for generations.” 

Beppe’s many talents have taken him far and wide.  He was asked to prepare a memorable meal for the Italian Embassy in London, which turned out to be a huge success that earned him high praise.  Though he humbly speaks of his skills, Beppe is a sought-after and award-winning sommelier with the Associazione Italina Sommelier who shares his expertise at community events and corporate affairs throughout Italy.  He is also a successful restaurateur who opens his doors and treats every guest as if they were a close friend.

In my opinion, Beppe is living life right in a career that inspires his creativity, draws out his love of people and blesses him with the fulfillment of busy, happy workdays. 

His advice to teens thinking about the restaurant business or cooking as a career?  “Put the most love you have into what you’re doing.  Do what you like – not what you’re told to do.  Don’t care what the oldest chef in the kitchen has to say – he’s not always right.  There is no way you can do your best if you’re not making your own way.”

Great advice, Beppe.  Thanks!

 Taverna Napoleone

Buon Appetito: components of the Italian meal

In every culture, formal meals often involve many courses served in succession.  Here it Italy, they've taken dining pleasures to new heights.  A meal can be drawn out for hours and spirits replenished by multiple bottles of wine and after dinner drinks.  So what are the components of the perfect Italian meal?

• Aperitivo - this first course is a beverage served to guests shortly after arrival.  It is often a crisp sparkling wine such as Prosecco or Cartizze.  It can also be a refreshing mix of sparkling water with Martini Rosso or Campari with a twist of citrus.
• Antipasto - Hot or cold appetizers served before the first course.  These range from simple presentations of olives and sliced meats such as prosciutto di Parma and culatello to preserved fish and foccaccia breads.
• Primo Piatti - First course.  Generally, this dish will be hot and will consist of soup such as Tortellini in Brodo or a small portion of pasta such as Ragu Bolognese. This is also the appropriate time in the meal for risotto or gnocchi dishes to be served.
• Secondo Piatti - Second course.  This meal component is dedicated to meats and fish.  Most traditional are regional fish, veal, pork and chicken. Beef is less common in Italy, but Bistecca Fiorentina is a popular interpretation of the classic American steak.
• Contorno - Side dishes of vegetables or salads.
• Formaggio e Frutta - Cheese and fruits.  Often served as an assortment of cheese particular to a region with or without simple bread.
• Dolce - Sweets.  Cakes, cookies, granita or gelato. 
• Caffe - coffee.  Usually espresso, not served with milk.
• Digestivo - A liqueur to cleanse the palate.  Common choices are limoncello, nocino and zambuca.   Another newcomer is Fragoli, a special Italian liqueur made from wild strawberries.  

Italian meals are about much more than food.  They are ceremonies of conversation, friendship, family and love . . . .and they are truly something to savor.  

The pictures you see here appear in my latest book Food Presentation: Tips and Inspiration.  Get your copy today!

Italian beach style in Rimini

One thing I have to admire is the Italian's body confidence.

It's amazing - they are perfectly comfortable in their own skin, so to speak.  I envy that total belief in themselves and that overwhelming confidence that shines in their every expression!

They walk with their shoulders back and their heads held high - no matter how smooth their bellies or legs.  They are proud of their curves.

The beaches and Lidos are a walking fashion show that could make a foreigner blush. Yesterday we saw people of both sexes about 50 pounds or more overweight - by our narrow-minded American standards - sporting tiny swimsuits and they were perfectly happy!

Even the senior citizens opt for bikinis.  They are at the beach to soak up the sun and relax and chat with friends, not worry about a few ripples in their skin.  You gotta love that!

But how great would it be to never worry about what other people thought of you on the beach?  Wonder if they'd teach us Americans that amazing style trick!

Of course, it wouldn't hurt to have beautiful bodies like these!

And no, we did not bare our fish belly white American skin in the Italian sun.  We just admired the  crowds and the amazing view.

Say goodbye to summer

This weekend we drove to the Adriatic Sea just below the Gulf of Venice, where beachgoers and boaters flock to soak up the sun in beautiful places like Porto Garibaldi near Commachio in Ferrara.

The wide smooth sand beaches are perfect for sun worshippers - and tens of thousands show up in their golden skin and tiny suits every day.  Each beach we visited was a sea of colorful umbrellas and happy smiles.

Since school starts in just a few days, the kids everywhere were squeezing the last bit of fun out of their summer before they have to go back to work on their studies next week.

Nothing makes me smile more than kids having fun - and just being kids!

The Magic of Homemade Pasta

Eggs and flour - two simple ingredients that combine to make something magical.  And Giuseppe “Beppe” Meschiari has invited me into his restaurant kitchen to witness the magic.

Here at Taverna Napoleone in Castlenuovo Rangone, it’s tortelloni making day.  

The dedicated team in the restaurant’s kitchen sets to work immediately upon arrival with a rhythm that can only be gained through years of side-by-side teamwork.   

They are efficient and quick, with practiced hands that produce beautiful rows of perfectly formed tortelloni.

There is Beppe’s Mama Morena, who makes the pasta dough in the morning. To prepare the dough, 2 kilos of type 00 flour is weighed.  Into the pasta mixer it goes, where 20 fresh eggs are added.  (Regardless of the size of the batch, the ratio of flour to eggs should remain the same.) 

 At this point, the recipe is customized by the chef who makes it – add a pinch of salt and olive oil – or don’t.  The flour and eggs are flavorful enough to stand on their own.  The pasta is mixed slowly by the dough hook for approximately 10 minutes.  Extra flour is added, a little at a time, to ensure soft, but not sticky dough.  

When the dough comes out of the mixer, it is ready to use and the production process begins.

Mama Morena next flattens a disc of the dough by hand then feeds it into the pasta machine.  Her hands lift and drape the sheet of pasta dough as it elongates and thins.  Then she reduces thickness settings gradually and feeds the dough back through the machine’s rollers until it is ready to fill.

Move onto the filling station, where Beppe’s Uncle Luciano and his wife Carla work shoulder to shoulder on stainless tables, using a pasta wheel with a serrated edge to cut the pasta into uniform squares. Luciano then places one spoonful of the spinach, ricotta and Parmesan filling at the center of each square, and Carla takes over, folding the dough, delicately pressing the seams then crimping the shape closed to keep the luscious filling inside.  

Nonna Azelia sets up new stations for the team with fresh sheets of pasta, and the crew moves from one production space to another without skipping a beat.  Chiamindo arranges single-layer trays of the pasta to hand off to Chef Moss. 

At the boiler, Chef Moss drops the just-made tortelloni into the boiling water for a quick bath to cook out any impurities that might exist in the dough’s raw egg.  When the tortelloni come to the surface, this first phase is nearly complete.  From here, the tortelloni is drained with a mesh strainer then slid into a stainless tray pre-coated with olive oil.  When Chef Moss settles the pasta into a single layer, he coats them with an extra layer of olive oil. 

The trays move into the flash freezer, where temperatures dip to below freezing.  Once firm, the tortelloni is transferred to airtight freezer bags and stored in very cold temperatures for a maximum of ten days to ensure the consistent fresh and delicate flavor.

In a morning’s work, the team here at Taverna Napoleone will produce more than 3000 tortelloni guaranteed to make your mouth water and your stomach groan with delight.  Folding the pasta beautifully is an art to be learned.  My tortelloni were far from perfect at first, but I slowly found how to hold my hands to discover my own folding style. 

Mama Morena assured me that each person’s tortelloni will bear the signature of their own technique – one of the true signs that the pasta is handmade and not factory manufactured in bulk.  

At service time, after another quick dip in boiling water to heat and cook the filling, Chef Moss pays tribute to the fine quality of the pasta itself with a straightforward and perfect sauce:  melted butter and warmed sage leaves.  When plated, he finishes the presentation with dots of aged balsamic vinegar and slivers of Parmesan Reggiano cheese.  I was delighted that he also shared his secret for a winter sauce presentation of the tortelloni: thinly sliced pancetta steeped in heavy cream and sprinkled with toasted hazlenuts.

Pure pasta heaven on earth!  Buon Appetito!

 Molto delizioso!

A brilliant meal with Marco and Petra!

To our delight, we were invited to partake in a meal at our good friends' home.  Marco and Petra were the consummate host and hostess. 


We arrived just as the sun was setting over the hillsides and farms of Sassuolo. 

In their rooftop garden we sipped our aperitivo Prosecco and enjoyed antipasti of succulent sun-dried tomatoes, olives and taralli.  Taralli is a crunchy biscuit bread with the delicate flavor of fennel, and it is a specialty of Puglia.  It's light taste goes beautifully with the crispness of the wine and the salty bit of the tomatoes and olives.

Our meal progressed to a classic pasta course that Marco selected from La scienza in cucina e l'arte di mangiare bene ("The Science of Cooking and the Art of Eating Well"), by Pellegrino Artusi.  (According to Wikipedia, the book was "first published in 1891, is widely regarded as the canon of classic modern Italian cuisine, and it is still in print. Its recipes come mainly from Romagna and Tuscany, where he lived.")

Marco prepared Artusi's classic dish called Maccheroni Pasticciati.  Layers of slow-simmered ragu, maccheroni pasta, cheeses and beschiamella sauce combine to make a truly decadent first course.  Fabulous - and filling! 

As Americans we have to learn to pace ourselves at the Italian table - it's all so good you can easily get carried away and get full very quickly!

For our next selection, Marco prepared Arrosto di Vitello al Balsamico with Fagiolini allo Speck and carved tomato flowers.  The veal roast is wrapped in pancetta slices and slowly browned, then bathed in a rich sauce of milk, seasonings and balsamic vinegar.  Unbelievable flavor!

For dessert, we were treated to Marco's specialty - Crepes Suzette!  They were light and delicious (some of us had seconds!), and were complemented perfectly by the dessert wine called Piccolit.  Piccolit is sweet and very flavorful.  A great choice to wrap up a lovely meal.  Petra also brought out a bottle of a potent yet tasty apricot schnapps as a digestif.

We'll continue to share dining adventures together - and bring them to you!